Vegetarians might wish to duck out.

Duck, three ways.

1. Last Night's Dinner : Roast Duck & Vegetables with Orange Sauce.

2. Today's Lunch: Crispy Duck Skin Rice Paper Rolls.

3. Tomorrow's Dinner: Duck Curry.

Day before yesterday - out of the freezer - a 2kg "duckling".

Yesterday in the early afternoon the duck was prepared for baking.

We stuffed the cavity with small mandarins (they have lots of zest that way), garlic cloves, onion slices, corriander seeds, cloves, star anise, cardomon pods and sticks of rosemary. Duck skin does not need basting with oil, so we just rubbed salt and pepper into the skin. We baked the duck on a tray that was fortuitously too large for the pan meaning it was on a lean - ideal for harvesting duck fat. We baked it on it's back for an hour, then covered the wings with alfoil to prevent them overcooking and drying and turned the bird over for another hour of baking. Done! Once the pan had cooled a little, but before the duck fat had time to set we poured all the beautiful dark caramel coloured duck fat that had collected in the pan into a large cup. Then we let the bird cool completely on the tray it had been baked in. Once it was cold we very carefully seperated the various pieces for the duck orange - the boneless upperbreast - just the inch closest to the skin, not the long thin pinkish fillet underneath, with skin, cut into four square pieces, the legs (not thighs) and the drumstick-like part of the wings.

We carefully stripped the remains of the bird for skin - setting that aside. Then we took the meat, thigh bones and lower wing and set that aside for the duck curry. The rest of the carcass we stocked for two hours on the stovetop (skimming once at the beginning and then letting it simmer) for the duck stock. We added a carrot and the carcass stuffing sans mandarins (spices, garlic, rosemary, onion).

When that was simmering away, we basted the (Roast Duck & Vegetables with Orange Sauce) vegetables - parsnip, carrot and potato - in the duck fat and set them baking for fifty minutes.

To make the Orange Sauce we used a little duck fat and a teaspoon of olive oil to fry the flesh from the mandarins (from the stuffing) and some freshly zested orange skin with a tablespoon of cornflour. Then we added some sweet white wine and a teaspoon of lime marmalade. Then we added a cup of the stock (which we took early on in the stocking process, just scooping in out with a ladle and straining it seperately) and some chilli, rosemary and pepper.

When the vegetables were done, we took the out and rested them and turned the grill on to grill the duck pieces arranged on a pan with the skin up. They were grilled for about five - ten minutes to really crisp up the skin and at some point we put the vegetables back in (our grill and oven are, annoyingly, not seperate - you may not have to do so much juggling if your grill is seperate) - then we served the vegetables and duck pieces with the orange sauce.

For lunch today we made Crispy Duck Skin Rice Paper Rolls inspired by Beijing Duck or Peking Duck, which we once ate in Beijing and loved. First we prepared a small bowl of thinly sliced cherry tomato and spring onions and mixed them with a teaspoon of ginger cordial and a teaspoon of hot chilli. Then a small bowl of slivered silverbeat (could use lettuce, cabbage, sprouts) and the small bowl of slivered duck skin. The duck skin we grilled at high heat - laying out the skin flat on the pan and grilling it for five to ten minutes until it was really crispy and then slivered it thin. We made a dozen of the rice paper rolls, using the very small rice papers rounds. We softened the rice paper in steaming water on the stovetop (in a fry pan) for a few minutes and then cooled them for a moment on a plate (by this time the next rice paper round is in - it gets quite methodical after a while) and then made the roll - about a teapoon from each of the three bowls (saucy tomato and spring onion; slivered silverbeat; crispy duck skin) and then roll.

We made six for us, six for Gray, and served them with individual dipping dishes of soy sauce

Now it's Sunday afternoon and I'm going to make the Duck Curry. I'll make it today, but we won't eat it until tomorrow night. I think it is better the second day.